A Master Chef in the Kitchen of Ebru Art: Atilla Can
The words like Salep, Flaxseed, Quince Seed, Seaweed (Kerajin), Fenugreek Extract (Kitre) don’t indicate a recipe, they are plant-based food substances used in water thickening for Ebru art. During our interview with Atilla Can, a true master chef in the world of Ebru art, we were surprised to hear that "beautiful Ebrus can be made from Salep." We discussed both the art of Ebru and cooking with him.
Could you tell us about Ebru art?
To define Ebru art, it is one of the oldest paper painting and decoration arts, learned through master-apprentice method. Throughout history, this art has been known by various names. Initially, it was called "Ebre," meaning veined or wavy. Another term, "Ebri," from Persian, means cloud-like. The name I prefer is derived from the Persian word Âb-ı Rûy, meaning "face of water."
In Europe, Ebru has been referred to as "marbling paper" or "Turkish marbling paper." In the Arab world, it is known as "varaku’l-mücezza," meaning marbled paper. Over time, these names have been replaced by the term "Ebru," which is widely accepted today.
Ebru art begins with creating a background on water, which is thickened with substances like size, Kerajin, or Salep mixed into pigments, oxides, or earth paints. Onto this background, pigments mixed with size are dropped using needles to create patterns on the water surface. These patterns are then transferred onto absorbent paper by gently laying the paper on top of the pattern on water. This process is what we call Ebru.
Salep, flaxseed, quince seed, seaweed (Kerajin), fenugreek extract (Kitre) are all plant-based materials used to thicken water for Ebru art.
How does one learn Ebru art?
The best way to learn Ebru art is through apprenticeship under a master. This process is intensive and arduous, culminating in a journey from apprentice to master. Once your master believes your years of training are sufficient, they will conclude your apprenticeship. Afterward, in a ritual, they will grant you an Ebru license in your name, symbolizing your graduation into this art form. However, declaring oneself as "accomplished" in Ebru art is akin to saying "I am done," which in this art signifies a lifelong journey of learning. Therefore, I believe one lifetime is not enough for Ebru art due to its continuous evolution in styles, forms, patterns, and research.
How would you describe a master Ebru artist?
The concept of beauty is subjective, but when it comes to someone who is well-versed in their art, has mastered its intricacies, and has established themselves in the field, you can determine their mastery by examining their works. Factors such as the difficulty of their creations, their skill in using pigments, their ability to impart knowledge and skills to apprentices, their innovations in the art form, and their dedication to Ebru are all indicators of mastery.
However, it's important to note that mastery isn't merely determined by producing flawless or numerous works over a long period. In my view, true mastery in traditional Ebru art also involves a philosophical outlook, a positive approach to empirical sciences, openness to innovation without stagnation, eradication of envy from the heart, and possessing didactic qualities and virtues. The absence of several of these criteria would diminish one's claim to mastery, which underscores the holistic nature of Ebru art.
We hear that Ebru art has entered the kitchen and food sector. Could you elaborate on this?
Discovering an Ebru pattern on the surface of a coffee served at a café in Italy was a delightful surprise for me as an Ebru artist. Italians have adopted Ebru art from us, and now they create what they call Latte Art—Ebru patterns on coffee. In America, they take this even further with highly detailed portrait works created with the help of technology. Imagine having your portrait on your coffee.
Those who have visited Zurich know that at Zurich Hauptbahnhof, the central train station, there's a pastry shop displaying exquisite chocolates decorated with Ebru patterns. Similarly, Ebru-patterned cookies and cakes shaped like ebbing and flowing waves adorn shelves in many parts of the world. In 2015, a fellow Ebru artist gifted me cookies adorned with Ebru patterns, indicating the versatility of this art.
You are recognized internationally as a Master Chef in Ebru art. Are you also skilled in the kitchen? What is the most ambitious dish you have prepared?
I wouldn't claim to be skilled in this regard, but nor would I say I can't crack two eggs. I have received many compliments from my life's two wonderful women—my wife and daughter—for preparing weekend breakfasts. I occasionally assist my wife in the kitchen, and with the encouragement I receive, I do venture into trying out various dishes. Although many have ended in disappointment, I can say that none of the meals I've prepared have caused harm. Perhaps my most ambitious attempt was trying to make fish soup, which ended with me consuming the same soup alone for two days.
